All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora
| Author | : | |
| Rating | : | 4.86 (683 Votes) |
| Asin | : | 0060773332 |
| Format Type | : | paperback |
| Number of Pages | : | 528 Pages |
| Publish Date | : | 2016-01-18 |
| Language | : | English |
DESCRIPTION:
For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.
"If You Don't Like the Story, Don't Shoot the Messenger" according to Elliot Malach. Whether or not you like the way Miki Dora lived his life is your problem. The book is a great read. In some sections I laughed, in others I shook my head in disbelief. The way his bio is told, by interviews with the people involved who many times gave conflicting stories, gave an interesting perspective to this enigmatic figure.It amazes me that someone. Dora Wins! Growing up in San Diego in the 60s and having read biographies of Greg Noll and Mike Doyle already, I idolized the surf scene and have followed it from my landlocked location. Dora is the ultimate enigma. Wants the attention when he wants it but wants to be elusive also. But what he really wanted more than anything, was the post WWII check out of societ. S. Benson said A great read. I have read many biographies of famous surfers, but this book is my favorite. Miki Dora lived an enigmatic and mysterious life and probably no book could do justice to such a larger-than-life character, but Rensin's book will be hard to top. Filled with classic stories and epic tales, I didn't want the book to end. Whether you hate Dora for being such a
It's his life after all. Many of Durden's aphorisms apply as well to Miki: "The things you own end up owning you." "It's only after we've lost everything that we're free to do anything." And my favorite, "Fight club exists only when fight club begins and when it ends." Or, as Miki famously said: "When there's surf I'm totally committed. I suppose he was simply waiting for the right person with the right point of view to come along, but as an experienced collaborator, I wonder how well he would have weathered the ups and downs inherent in that kind of working relationship. But not always. We talked, I told him the same. Part of what I had to do to gain access to intervie